I’ve been reading about people who sign compacts to not buy anything at all but food, medicine, and toiletries for a year, and others who decide not to buy anything new but food, medicine, and toiletries, and others who live by dumpster diving, getting even their food, medicine, and toiletries from other people’s trash. The purpose, for them, is to reduce their impact on the environment. That’s a worthy goal, but honestly, I don’t see how deprivation will achieve it.
We have to look at living lightly from a variety of perspectives. Consuming anything at all has an impact, the goal is to reduce that impact. Don’t sign agreements that limit what you will buy. Consider instead ones that suggest how you buy. Anything you acquire has both an economic and an environmental impact – whether you buy it new, used, or acquire it through dumpster diving. Spend some time before you embark on a save the environment course of living by actually researching how much of an impact your current lifestyle has and the impact your proposed lifestyle will have. Sometimes, in attempting to be environmentally conscious and economically aware, the course chosen does the opposite intended.
Accept, at the beginning, that anything you choose to do will have both an
economic and an environmental impact. You can’t avoid it. Find instead an
achievable goal – reducing the clutter in your life, for example, or weaning
yourself from impulse buying, or improving your own financial security. Create
a set of actions that will help you achieve that goal, and make those acts a
habit. Review your habits in depth every 5 years. Anymore often than that, and
you won’t be able to tell if what you’ve been doing actually works – some things
take a longer time to manifest than others, and you want to give it all a
chance. Besides, doing a yearly in-depth review becomes a chore that gets put
off because it is time-consuming and labor intensive. Do a brief overview
yearly and save the in-depth one for a five year review.
There are several steps to this process, don’t try to implement changes until
you’ve gone through all the steps. It makes more sense and you’ll be more
likely to stay on track. No shiny distractions.
Step One: This one will take a bit of time, but it’s all part and parcel with
almost every goal to simplify your life, life more environmentally aware,
increase your personal financial security, have a reduced economic impact on
society, or just make yourself feel better and happier. Do take all the time
you need to complete this step. The first thing you need to do with it is buy
yourself a spiral bound notebook or an insert for your day-runner that you can
write in daily. Keep this with you. In it write down every single thing you do
– from stretching and hitting the snooze button three times on your clock before
you get up to how long your morning grooming routine takes to whether you stop
to buy a newspaper or breakfast snack on the way to work clear up to your
bedtime time routine when you turn the lights out and snuggle down to sleep.
Everything. Stopping to feed the ducks, or watch kids play street hockey.
Driving aimlessly around town looking for someplace that appeals to you for
lunch. Chatting on the phone. Text messaging your co-workers. Tapping a
pencil against your teeth while you think. Watching TV or listening to your
iPod. All of it. Every last second of time you spend doing whatever it is you
do. At minimum, this might take a week, for the truly obsessive-compulsive.
Most people will take a month and think they’re done, but I think it should take
at least one year – so you include all the various holiday activities and
seasonal activities in all of this. This is where having a spreadsheet comes in
really handy, so enter the data you accumulate in your notebook daily or weekly
until you’re satisfied you’ve listed every thing you are most likely to do
throughout the year. Your time is one of your most valuable resources, and you
need to know exactly how you spend it. You can do other steps while you are
doing the other steps. Don’t forget to include the time you spend on this
project in your log of activities.
Bear in mind that if you work a 40-hour week, you will spend 2080 hours a year
at work, and probably about 520 hours a year getting to and from work. If you
sleep 8 hours a night, you will spend about 2920 hours sleeping, and another 365
hours a year preparing to sleep, and another 365 hours a year waking up.
Everyone has 8760 hours in the year, and we’ve already filled about 6250 hours
with work and sleep and waking. Then there are the routine tasks: grocery
shopping, clothes shopping, housecleaning, walking the dog, preparing meals or
taking the time to buy prepared meals, voting, keeping current with the news and
weather, lawn care, shoveling snow, doctor’s appointments, other types of
appointments, etc. Figure about 720 hours a year on necessary household and
personal tasks – that goes up if you have large gardens or lots of snow or
remodeling projects or frequent illnesses. That brings the total on work,
sleeping, waking, and necessary tasks to 6970. You have 1760 free hours a year
that aren’t dedicated to work, work-related tasks, or necessary survival tasks.
Approximately 260 days are work days, which means you have 3.2 hours a workday
free, and 9 hours a day on weekends. I have not removed holiday hours from work
hours because those vary widely, so you may have more free hours than 1760 a
year. Conversely, if you work longer hours, you’ll have less free time.
And if you have children, you need to factor in the time it takes for their
needs – trips to the doctor, school, and extracurricular activities, play
times, “drag” time waiting for them to get ready, extra time for meals and
shopping, appointments with teachers and school administrators, PTA meetings,
etc. In fact, if you have children, consider that the bulk of your free time
will be dedicated to them for at least 18 years. You will need to plan
carefully to have any free time to yourself and to meet your goals.
Pets also take time. You need to clean up after them, feed them, play with
them, train them, take them to the vet. Don’t forget to factor their needs into
your time.
Do you begin to understand why we feel so rushed and harried – we have so little
actual free time for personal pleasure and with which to pursue our own goals?
Step Two: Inventory everything you own. Everything, yes, even the report cards
you kept from your grade school, and your kids’ reports cards. Old
correspondence and greeting cards. Bits of ribbons and stray screws and nails.
Write it all down. It’s more fun to do this with someone – one person calls out
what they find, the other writes it down. Obviously, we are keeping the
computer and internet service, so use it. Type the inventory into a spreadsheet
like Excel or database program like Access. Use Library Thing to inventory your
books and music collection. Don’t sort, separate, or throw away anything at
this point. You can make separate lists – one for each room,and include any
outdoor space you may have, like garage, storage shed, greenhouse, doghouse,
rabbit hutches, poolroom; just don’t pile things into separate piles of “keep”,
“toss”, “sell”, etc. You want a full and complete inventory.
You might want a separate list for food items and consumables like toilet paper,
cleaning supplies, and toiletries, because these quantities may change as you
conduct the inventory simply because you’ll need to use them, and replace them.
That separate list of food is useful for many other things, which segues into
Step Three.
Step Three: Inventory your food. All of it, including herbs, spices, and
half-used packets of powdered cheese sauce. Don’t forget the Mystery Tubs of
leftovers in the refrigerator. On this list, it’s perfectly acceptable
to toss foods well past their expiration dates or ones that are close to
attaining sentience in their own right. Moldy, mildewy, spoiled, soured, or
otherwise bad foods need to go. Inventory only the edible foods.
A part of this inventory will include meals – list what you eat at each meal,
whether you cooked or prepared it at home or ate in a restaurant or at a
friend’s house. All three of these lists will be very important when you get to
Step Six and beyond.
Did you know that in some countries, people are taxed on the size of their
refrigerators, and few have the behemoths we do? We store far too many things
in our refrigerators, and then forget about them because we tend to have
refrigerators larger than we actually need. Freezers are a different matter.
We actually need much larger freezers than the typical family has. That’s
something to ponder as you continue on to
Step Four: Make a list of your personal goals, short term and long term.
Consider how much money you’d like to save, whether you want to invest any
money, vacations you want to take, things you want to own, things you want to do
or learn how to do, how much de-cluttering you want to do, people you’d like to
keep as friends, dietary changes you want to make, volunteer work you want to
do, etc. List it all, even the improbable and impossible.
Step Five: For each of the goals you listed in Step Four, make a list of the
steps you need to take to achieve that goal. If you know the time each step
will take, include that.
So – look at the goals you’ve made, the time they’ll take and compare it to the
time you actually have. Don’t forget to factor in time in which to do
absolutely nothing or to sleep in, and give yourself a bit of leeway for
unexpected opportunities or tasks.
Now, go through your list of goals and prioritize them based on what you now
know about your available time. Decide which ones you really want to do (and
that can certainly be all of them, if you want). Develop a time frame – a
humanly accomplishable time frame, in which to do them. And don’t hesitate to
decline any tasks that don’t fit into the time frame and “wiggle room” you’ve
given yourself.
Be sure to plan for simplifying your life as a top priority item. When you’re
finished, you’ll be using less time to keep things tidy and clean and organized.
It’s worth it to spend the time now to buy yourself more time later.
The more free time you can make for yourself, the more time you’ll have for
other pursuits.
Now, Step Six: What to do with all those lists you made. That first list is
how much time you spend on your activities. Look it over carefully and see
where you can rearrange the time you spend on things. Consider your commute
time – can you reduce it by using another method to travel to and from work, or
work from home part of the time? How about transferring to a closer work
location? Is it possible to take that unpaid lunch hour and move it to the
start or end of your work day to give you more time that isn’t spent at work?
Any free time you can create is your time. Your boss isn’t paying you
for your commute times or your lunch hour, so find out how you can reclaim those
hours for yourself.
What about other tasks? Can you reduce the number of times you do them, like
shopping once a week or once every two weeks instead of two or three times a
week? Or can you combine tasks – like dropping your car off for the oil change
and walking to the nearby grocery store to shop or pay bills at a nearby bank or
place that accepts payments? Can you schedule everyone to have routine health
care done at the same time? Remember, this is your time you’re spending, and
you have a list of things you plan to do. Areas you cannot trim too far are the
ones dedicated to your children and your pets. You’ll just have to plan around
those times and accept that those times are dedicated times.
Look at your deadlines. Are you always a day late on bills and having to pay
late fees? What other fees do you have to pay because you didn’t get a chance
to do things in a timely manner? Here’s where you’re plotting and planning your
time, so be sure to make a schedule for paying bills, filing taxes, renewing
memberships and subscriptions, and doing other things that have deadlines. One
of those large graph calendars would be good for this – and the best place to
hang it is either beside the refrigerator or the computer, with a pen attached
so you can write in appointments and such as they come up.
Step Seven: In List Two, you made an inventory of all the things you own. Take
the time now to go through that list and sort – on the computer screen, by room,
the things you must keep, the things you’d like to keep, the room it should be
in (funny, how things travel to odd places about the house, isn’t it?), the
things you never use, the things you don’t want anymore, that are broken, worn
out, past their expiration date, or that you can’t figure out how to use. Print
these lists out and take them to those rooms with boxes labeled: Don’t Want and
Broken. Fill the boxes up. Figure out if the broken things can be fixed and if
you want to keep them enough to fix them. Sell these things on eBay or put them
up on Craigslist or Freecycle.
What’s left needs to be examined to see if they, too, need fixing, cleaning, or
refurbishing. You may need to invest in proper storage or display for them –
shelves for books, for example. When you’re moving and cleaning things, take
some time to paint or paper or wash your walls, baseboards, lintels, window and
door frames, and other architectural fixtures. Take down and launder or replace
curtains or blinds. Put everything back in its new and proper place.
Do this one room at a time. Don’t expect to get it all done over a single
weekend. If you’re a pack rat by inclination or genetics, expect it to take
months to get through all of this. You’re spending a lot of time on simplifying
your life, but when you’re done, you will find you have more free time.
Step Eight: In List Three, you listed all the foods you have on hand, and
tossed all the expired and spoiled foods. Now, look over the list and see what
your diet is like. Are there places where you could streamline it, condense
shopping trips, buy locally? Are there foods you regularly buy that you never
really eat? Stop buying them. Are there things you wish you had on hand that
you never do? Add them to your shopping list. Do you want to explore new
cuisines? Here’s the time and place to tailor that to your life. Do you eat
out more than you think you should – or less? Here’s the place to rectify that.
With your inventory printed out and in hand, you can go through your pantry and
clean things up even more, organize them, and make things convenient for your
use. Don’t hesitate to do things like re-arrange the kitchen equipment, trade
the large refrigerator for a smaller one and add a freezer. Put in shelves for
your canned and jarred foods if you need to. Simple ones, like the expensive
Swedish modular shelving, can be made from dowel rods for the shelves and 2×2’s
for the supports (or 1×2’s for the shelves and either 2×2’s or 4×4’s for the
supports), or buy “L” brackets and screw the shelves directly to the walls, or
buy pre-made shelves. Organizing your foods will make a tremendous difference
in streamlining your meal preparations – and that frees up a bit of your time.
Now, with these eight steps, you’ve organized your home, de-cluttered your life,
saved a bit of money, and altered your diet. From here, you can decide how much
further you will go. Step Nine is all about the future.
Step Nine: Remember, all of this started because you were interested in “going
green”, or reducing your impact on the environment and the economy, or to
simplify your life. In the previous eight steps, you’ve settled your life so
you can do just that. Now, you have time to ride a bicycle to work (assuming
you live close enough to work to do that), or choose to buy less and consume
less.
Most places will tell you to just stop buying things, but that’s not so easy.
What I recommend is the “wait for it” method. Never go shopping without a list.
Buy only what’s on the list. If it’s not on the list and you see it and want to
buy it, walk away. Go home. Think about it. Think about how many hours you
have to work to pay for it. If you still want it after going home and thinking
about it, put it on the shopping list. When you go shopping, if you still want
it, it’s on your list; you’ve budgeted for it, and given yourself permission to
buy it. This gives you a cooling off period, keeps you in your budget, and
reduces your spending. You’re less likely to reach for that magazine or candy
bar if you have taught yourself to wait for it.
Anticipation is a highly underrated tool. Given the passage of enough time,
you’ll either determine you really do need whatever you wanted on impulse, or
you’ll realize you didn’t need or want it after all; it was just a neat gadget
with which to re-clutter your house.
Shop at thrift stores, second hand stores, or acquire things from Craigslist or
Freecycle,or paperbackswap.com, to reduce your personal expenditures and
slightly reduce the environmental impact (it doesn’t realistically reduce it by
much because if you’re buying it used, someone else is probably repalcing it
with a new version). If it squicks you to buy something used (like shoes or
gloves or mattresses), go ahead and buy it new, but do some comparison shopping
and buy brands you can support in good conscience.
One thing I do recommend is applying the concept of permaculture to your kitchen
and home – make it a cohesive and interrelated whole. To quote one of the
founders of permaculture, Bill Mollison, “permaculture is urging complete
cooperation between each other and every other thing, animate and inanimate.”
We want to care for the earth, care for people, distribute the surplus and
re-invest in the earth and the people. That can be done on a small scale within
the home. Every element in a design should have multiple functions within the
home, serve several purposes, and be related to one another in use and setting.
Think of the kitchen, where the stove, sink, and food storage are located close
together. Your counter tops, equipment, and books related to cooking are all
together within easy reach and function together as a unit. Expand this type of
functionality throughout the house, letting the design and the furnishings flow
from one use to another. Consider how friends and family tend to gather in the
kitchen during visits, and it seems natural to bring the two rooms together with
a blurred and open border between them, so the functions of entertainment and
visitors mingles with the function of feeding everyone. Think of other ways you
can blur the borders between rooms and their functions and even with the
outdoors.
Energy-wise, in the home, consider how the home is situated towards the sun, and
use it for lighting and supplemental heating. Consider how your home is related
to your neighbors, your friends, where you work, shop, and play, and see how you
can maximize a permaculture concept there. You can’t get cooperation from a
divided and hierarchical system, but it’s natural to a “guild” or community type
system, where each element depends upon the others. That recognition of
dependence is the true “greening”. If you want to be environmentally and
economically conscious, rather than buying “green” things just because they are
labeled as “green”, consider their place in a community of appliances, supplies,
things, people, critters, and uses. Even things which aren’t technically
“green” or labeled as “green” can be so, if used appropriately. Once you’ve
inventoried and de-cluttered your home, organizing it along permaculture lines
should be easy enough. Then, it follows that the things you come to need and
want will fit in with the permaculture concept and you’ll find yourself buying
less. When you do buy, you will buy better – better quality, a better fit to
you and your chosen lifestyle, and better for the environment.
It may not be better for the national economy, which is based in consumerism and
obsoletism, but it will be better for your personal economy.
And that, in nine time-consuming, but comparatively easy steps, is one way to
become more environmentally and economically conscious and to live a lifestyle
that is greener and better for the world and for you.